The Candlemaker sells a mold release which helps separate the candle from it's mold. This isn't necessary. You can use Pam which is a non-stick surface oil. It's less expensive. Now a problem I had was that the holes in the mold were too small to run the wick through so while the wax was melting I had to think fast. I took my power drill (which happened to have next to no power) and made the holes just big enough to run the wick through. Check your holes before you begin so you don't have to rush the way I did. Use a good length of wick. It's better to use more than less. Once the wick has come out the other side you'll find that you have no way of centering it. What I did was use a toothpick for each mold and wrap the wick around it. Hold it in place with the Mold Seal if you have to. Remember, don't allow the wax to boil. Doing so would only create air bubbles in your candles.
When it comes time to pour the wax, again, pour slowly because the rising heat can create air bubbles and ruin your work. Let the mold sit undisturbed. Be careful handling the mold after you pour the wax. The aluminum will absorb the heat. Don't rush the cooling process. If the wax cools too fast then the candle may crack. Let the mold sit for a couple of hours. I let my first attempt sit for 24 hours just to be on the safe side. The next problem you'll encounter to getting the candles out of the mold. Tap the mold a few times so that the vibration loosens the wax. Take the candle by the wick wrapped around the toothpick and pull gently. If this fails then use a hair dryer to warm up the mold casing until the candles become lose. Good luck with your project.